Chlorophyllia represents the first melt of spring with startling realism. The scent is truly aquatic, not in that awful 90s calone, "sea breeze" sense, but in a visceral, photorealistic sense. Everything is damp, the icicles are dripping, the snow banks are melting.
The opening is bright and striking and very green. I'd say it's a neon green except that suggests a kind of harsh, artificial brightness when in fact, it recalls to mind the kind of warm, neon green you see when foliage is backlit by the sun. It lacks the harsh edges of more traditional green perfumes, instead imparting an approachable vibe I associate with this house. The opening is further mellowed out with a rooty orris. Orris can become overly candied or brutally dust-dry on my skin, but mercifully, with Chlorophyllia, the orris retains a balanced, earthy character.
As we enter the heart of the fragrance, the ylang ylang asserts itself and the fragrance reaches its most difficult phase. White florals can be challenging because of their indoles. I've found that Libertine really shies away from anything skanky but here, when I draw my nose close there is an unexpected pissy quality to the ylang ylang. If I take my nose further away, there is more of an impression of waterlogged flowers, delicate soggy petals that are breaking down in fresh water, almost like fresh cut blooms that have been macerated and are decaying in water. It's not exactly pretty but it's not at all repellent and this stage lasts for some time.
The scent becomes truly lovely in the dry down as the ylang ylang becomes less assertive and the complexity of the vetiver starts to come through. It blends seamlessly with the other notes, such that I would not call this a vetiver scent. It's partnered in a pas de deux with the orris. The vetiver here is a rich and variegated jade green that carries all the pungency and complexity of vetiver essential oil. Dries down to wet earth, a touch of smoke, jade vetiver and the memory of water-logged florals.
A fantastic effort, creative and honest, one of the best fragrances I have smelled in a very long time.
As someone who doesn't like sweet perfumes but loves floral scents, I really appreciate this beauty.
This purchase was a shot in the dark as I didn’t get a sample set and relied on the description to decide which vetiver perfume to get. This perfume is fun to wear because I always smell something new every time I wear it. It’s really grown on me and I find it perfect for spring. Thanks!!